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When Aaron and I got married, we figured we'd sort out our honeymoon after we'd moved to New York.
We moved to New York and, less than a month later, I was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia.
We've spent the last two and a half years dealing with that little episode.
Early on in the treatment, my social worker at Sloan Kettering told us about the Dream Team. The philanthropic arm of the hospital operates like the Make a Wish or Starlight Foundation programs. She said people often took vacations, or met people they admired.
I knew I wanted a honeymoon with my love. The person who has held my hand through stupid cancer. Who stayed up with me when I was puking or shitting my guts out, who dressed me when my fingernails were falling off, who cooked and cleaned, and took care of bills and insurance and life while I was unable to do so. And after all that, he somehow still finds me attractive and makes me feel like I'm the most beautiful person on earth. He is the most patient, kind, and loving person I know. This guy deserves a nice holiday where he gets taken care of!
We were initially going to go to Puerto Rico. Then my social worker told us it wasn't going to work out because it was too expensive for the dates we wanted. There was a possibility of a place called Guana Island, were we interested?
I googled Guana Island and just about fell out of my chair.
We moved to New York and, less than a month later, I was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia.
We've spent the last two and a half years dealing with that little episode.
Early on in the treatment, my social worker at Sloan Kettering told us about the Dream Team. The philanthropic arm of the hospital operates like the Make a Wish or Starlight Foundation programs. She said people often took vacations, or met people they admired.
I knew I wanted a honeymoon with my love. The person who has held my hand through stupid cancer. Who stayed up with me when I was puking or shitting my guts out, who dressed me when my fingernails were falling off, who cooked and cleaned, and took care of bills and insurance and life while I was unable to do so. And after all that, he somehow still finds me attractive and makes me feel like I'm the most beautiful person on earth. He is the most patient, kind, and loving person I know. This guy deserves a nice holiday where he gets taken care of!
We were initially going to go to Puerto Rico. Then my social worker told us it wasn't going to work out because it was too expensive for the dates we wanted. There was a possibility of a place called Guana Island, were we interested?
I googled Guana Island and just about fell out of my chair.
this is what comes up when you google Guana Island
Ummm... yes please!
We sent our passport details and the flights were booked. The trip was also organized to allow us a quick trip to Richmond to spend some time with Aaron's parents.
Three flights and a car ride around a large fence at Tortola Airport found us on a small boat headed to Guana Island. Chris, our captain, was a young Kiwi-Brit who had been working in the British Virgin Island (referred to by all the locals as the 'BVI') for around three years.
In the dark, we crossed the bay. A large dark hill loomed in front of the boat.
“That's Guana Island. Of course, if looks much better in the day…”
We rounded what we later learned to be, Monkey Point, and came into a cove. The boat’s spotlight illuminated clear water and white sand. Up the hill from the beachside dock, we could lights illuminating square white buildings.
We were transferred into golf carts and headed up the hill. The road was steep, and even at night the driver went at a terrific pace. We giggled as we drove under a canopy of leaves. It was deliciously warm, and the air smelt sweet and fresh. Where are we?!
The guide took us to our room, Ayegata 2 (named for one of the many islands in the BVI). We were told we would have an amazing view of the ocean in the morning. Dinner was being served in the dining area as soon as we were ready.
Our bags were delivered, and we changed into Guana appropriate dinnerware - collared shirt for Aaron and a long dress for me. In the 1930s, the families and groups of people living on the island lived in tents, had no hot water, and bought in all their supplies by row boat, but “they always dressed up for dinner.” The island now has somewhat upgraded from the tents and cold water, but the tradition of dressing up for dinner remains.
Upon entering the dining area, we were shown the bar.
“It’s an open bar, with an honor system. Sometimes there's a barman, otherwise just help yourself. Just record your drinks in the log.”
We promptly ordered mojitos.
We were seated on a candlelit terrace overlooking the dark ocean. The lovely staff proceeded to serve an amazing four course dinner, paired with matching wines. Carrot soup, followed by a salad bursting with fresh tropical fruits and spicy greens. Crackled pork served with roasted yams, potatoes, and tiny onions bursting with flavor. For dessert there was chocolate coulant, a kind of warm cakey muffin oozing chocolate, paired with strawberries that had definitely spent a good portion of their life in a bowl of icing sugar, and vanilla ice cream.
Throughout the night I kept waking up and looking expectantly out the window. Is it daytime yet?!
We sent our passport details and the flights were booked. The trip was also organized to allow us a quick trip to Richmond to spend some time with Aaron's parents.
Three flights and a car ride around a large fence at Tortola Airport found us on a small boat headed to Guana Island. Chris, our captain, was a young Kiwi-Brit who had been working in the British Virgin Island (referred to by all the locals as the 'BVI') for around three years.
In the dark, we crossed the bay. A large dark hill loomed in front of the boat.
“That's Guana Island. Of course, if looks much better in the day…”
We rounded what we later learned to be, Monkey Point, and came into a cove. The boat’s spotlight illuminated clear water and white sand. Up the hill from the beachside dock, we could lights illuminating square white buildings.
We were transferred into golf carts and headed up the hill. The road was steep, and even at night the driver went at a terrific pace. We giggled as we drove under a canopy of leaves. It was deliciously warm, and the air smelt sweet and fresh. Where are we?!
The guide took us to our room, Ayegata 2 (named for one of the many islands in the BVI). We were told we would have an amazing view of the ocean in the morning. Dinner was being served in the dining area as soon as we were ready.
Our bags were delivered, and we changed into Guana appropriate dinnerware - collared shirt for Aaron and a long dress for me. In the 1930s, the families and groups of people living on the island lived in tents, had no hot water, and bought in all their supplies by row boat, but “they always dressed up for dinner.” The island now has somewhat upgraded from the tents and cold water, but the tradition of dressing up for dinner remains.
Upon entering the dining area, we were shown the bar.
“It’s an open bar, with an honor system. Sometimes there's a barman, otherwise just help yourself. Just record your drinks in the log.”
We promptly ordered mojitos.
We were seated on a candlelit terrace overlooking the dark ocean. The lovely staff proceeded to serve an amazing four course dinner, paired with matching wines. Carrot soup, followed by a salad bursting with fresh tropical fruits and spicy greens. Crackled pork served with roasted yams, potatoes, and tiny onions bursting with flavor. For dessert there was chocolate coulant, a kind of warm cakey muffin oozing chocolate, paired with strawberries that had definitely spent a good portion of their life in a bowl of icing sugar, and vanilla ice cream.
Throughout the night I kept waking up and looking expectantly out the window. Is it daytime yet?!
View from our room
When we awoke, a calm blue ocean stretched out in front of us.
Breakfast consisted of cheese, cured meats, and fresh fruit. There were also options for cereal, granola, yogurt, and hot breakfast with eggs of your choice cooked to order.
After breakfast, we were taken on a tour of the facilities, and signed up for various activities.
Before hitting the beach, we decided to do one of the many hikes that have been mapped out on the island. The Pyramid Trail started right outside our room, and promised great views and a trip to the rock the island is named for.
The trail was marked as easy, and we both became slightly unnerved at the island's ranking. The path was steep, rocky, narrow, and surprisingly challenging.
Breakfast consisted of cheese, cured meats, and fresh fruit. There were also options for cereal, granola, yogurt, and hot breakfast with eggs of your choice cooked to order.
After breakfast, we were taken on a tour of the facilities, and signed up for various activities.
Before hitting the beach, we decided to do one of the many hikes that have been mapped out on the island. The Pyramid Trail started right outside our room, and promised great views and a trip to the rock the island is named for.
The trail was marked as easy, and we both became slightly unnerved at the island's ranking. The path was steep, rocky, narrow, and surprisingly challenging.
All around us were beautiful trees, red turpentines, feathery tamarinds, and nest-like remnants of orchid plants. The dry climate is perfect for cacti, tall Organ Pipes and squat Turk's Caps. Dotted amongst the trees and cacti were an amazing array of bromeliads. Tiny lizards scuttled underfoot, and brown doves flitted in and out of the trees.
Half-way along we came to the edge of the island and the famed Iguana Rock for which is the island is named (we never did find out why the 'I' was dropped). Aaron, being a mountain goat, scampered down to check out the rocks further below. I stayed at the top taking panoramic pictures and trying to ignore my vertigo.
The path looped around the other side of the island. Aaron, who had become expert at spotting lizards, found our first real life iguana, a large pre-historic looking creature who scuttled away after we filmed it bobbing its head. We also spotted several common doves, and a tiny luminescent-green hummingbird with a long hook-shape beak.
Half-way along we came to the edge of the island and the famed Iguana Rock for which is the island is named (we never did find out why the 'I' was dropped). Aaron, being a mountain goat, scampered down to check out the rocks further below. I stayed at the top taking panoramic pictures and trying to ignore my vertigo.
The path looped around the other side of the island. Aaron, who had become expert at spotting lizards, found our first real life iguana, a large pre-historic looking creature who scuttled away after we filmed it bobbing its head. We also spotted several common doves, and a tiny luminescent-green hummingbird with a long hook-shape beak.
The beach
Down on the beach, the air was warm, the water was crystal clear and inviting, and pelicans and brown boobys were nose-diving for fish. Aaron decided to take out one of the small sailboats, and I went for a swim. It was fun to be surrounded by tiny silvery fish and the occasional larger fish with a yellow stripe down its side. We found a hammock hanging beneath some palm trees, and I’m pleased to report it was in perfect working order.
All that activity meant we were starving again. Lunch was a buffet affair, with fresh fish, porchetta, braised bok choy, several different salads all topped with fresh fruit, cous cous salads, bread… We were ready to leave the table when the waitress bought out dessert - orange cake topped with orange slices and mango sorbet. I hope you’re catching on that the food was really out of this world amazing.
In the afternoon we went on an Orchard Tour. Led by the resident botanic expert Vernon, we wandered around the large orchard learning about the cycles of papaya, bananas, mangos, bread fruit, and a whole array of fruits and vegetables. Vernon studied agriculture and agricultural tourism in Cuba, and has been applying organic and sustainable farming practices to the orchard for the past few years.
All that activity meant we were starving again. Lunch was a buffet affair, with fresh fish, porchetta, braised bok choy, several different salads all topped with fresh fruit, cous cous salads, bread… We were ready to leave the table when the waitress bought out dessert - orange cake topped with orange slices and mango sorbet. I hope you’re catching on that the food was really out of this world amazing.
In the afternoon we went on an Orchard Tour. Led by the resident botanic expert Vernon, we wandered around the large orchard learning about the cycles of papaya, bananas, mangos, bread fruit, and a whole array of fruits and vegetables. Vernon studied agriculture and agricultural tourism in Cuba, and has been applying organic and sustainable farming practices to the orchard for the past few years.
Boy samples coconut
We discovered that Guana has a farm-to-table program, so a lot of the produce we had been enjoying at our meals came straight from the orchard. At the end of the tour, we were treated to samples of freshly harvested star fruit, papaya, banana, mangosteen, coconut, miracle fruit, and a slice of key lime. Those of you who have ever tasted a key lime will know it’s incredibly sour. Eating a little miracle fruit beforehand has the amazing ability of making the key lime sweet. Apparently there is research underway to use miracle fruit as a natural alternative to sugar.
A sample of the produce in the Orchard. Basil, papaya, water apple, bananas, and eggplant.
After more beach time, we headed to cocktail hour and hors d’oeuvres in the living room of the main house. We met some of the other guests (during our stay, there were never more than 15-20 other guests on the whole island) and made friends with a lovely couple, Drew and Brian, from Atlanta. Dinner was another four course affair, this time with a bottle of champagne courtesy of the Dream Team.
On Saturday morning, we hiked Liao Wei Ping's Trail up to the bat caves. The trail is named for the island's former resident Dr Liao Wei Ping. Dr. Liao Wei Ping is a master gardener, ornithologist, sculptor and poet, who cut many of the trails by hand and started the orchard. He now resides in San Francisco.
Liao’s Trail is more inland than the Pyramid Trail, and so had a denser forest with twisting rope vines, huge trees that housed bromeliads and enormous termite nests, and a plethora of crabs. It was fun to stand still and hear them scurrying across the rocks and leaf litter on the path. We cut away from Liao’s Trail and onto the Orchard Trail which led back to the beach.
Liao’s Trail is more inland than the Pyramid Trail, and so had a denser forest with twisting rope vines, huge trees that housed bromeliads and enormous termite nests, and a plethora of crabs. It was fun to stand still and hear them scurrying across the rocks and leaf litter on the path. We cut away from Liao’s Trail and onto the Orchard Trail which led back to the beach.
The coconut was as big as my head (without the hair...obviously).
I discovered that it was possible to have fresh coconuts delivered to the beach, so began participating in an important tradition of drinking from a coconut on a daily basis.
View from the Massage Hut
Beverage time was followed by massage time. Massage and spa treatments take place in the Spa, a wooden hut with large mesh windows situated between the palm trees and sea grapes right on the beach. The masseuse, Lissa, placed a bowl of hibiscus flowers under the head rest, and with the sound of the Caribbean ocean lapping on the sand, I had one of the best deep tissue massages ever. I had never actually experienced a meditation or massage on a tropical beach with warm flower-scented air wafting through the windows and, I have to say, it lives up to its cliched hype.
After lunch, we headed out on a snorkeling trip. The expedition was led by Captain Chris and Jordan, a Guana Island staff member who has worked for many years as a professional fisherman, and we were joined by our friend Drew.
Chris parked the boat a little way from Monkey Point, taught us how to prepare the masks with detergent, and showed us how to fit the masks properly. In the water, we were given pool noodles so we could spend more time in the water without worrying too much about wearing ourselves out.
The water was a little chilly at first, and the visibility was not brilliant owing to the wind. Once we got closer to Monkey Point, the visibility improved and Aaron and I started to see what all the fuss over snorkeling/diving was all about. We saw several different corals, schools of silver bait fish diving in and out of the water, trumpet fish, rainbow trout, blue tangs, and even a barracuda. Jordan, our resident fisherman, kept declaring he wished he had a line as some hefty looking yellowtails kept swimming by.
After lunch, we headed out on a snorkeling trip. The expedition was led by Captain Chris and Jordan, a Guana Island staff member who has worked for many years as a professional fisherman, and we were joined by our friend Drew.
Chris parked the boat a little way from Monkey Point, taught us how to prepare the masks with detergent, and showed us how to fit the masks properly. In the water, we were given pool noodles so we could spend more time in the water without worrying too much about wearing ourselves out.
The water was a little chilly at first, and the visibility was not brilliant owing to the wind. Once we got closer to Monkey Point, the visibility improved and Aaron and I started to see what all the fuss over snorkeling/diving was all about. We saw several different corals, schools of silver bait fish diving in and out of the water, trumpet fish, rainbow trout, blue tangs, and even a barracuda. Jordan, our resident fisherman, kept declaring he wished he had a line as some hefty looking yellowtails kept swimming by.
Snorkelling at Monkey Point. My mask was being fixed when this photo was taken.
Back at the beach, it was novel reading and piña colada time.
In the evening we enjoyed hors d’oeuvres with our friends, and were seated at the largest table to share dinner with a group of people who have all been coming back to Guana on an annual basis for some twenty years. Our meal consisted of sweet pea soup, carrot salad (served with fresh fruit and micro greens from the orchard), halibut with fresh vegetables, and finished off with sweet cheese.
Sunday was Castaway Picnic day. We were taken by boat to Bigelow Beach and left for four hours to our own devices with a large picnic hamper and cooler. We set up the picnic under the shade of the sea grapes, and headed into the water for a snorkel. We saw more trumpet fish, bait fish, some beautiful fan-shaped corals, and Aaron spotted the tail of a moray eel. After our swim, we savored cheeses, prosciutto, salami, crusty bread smeared with olive oil, tortilla, fresh fruit, and some sweet white wine. Tres romantic and luxurious!
In the evening we enjoyed hors d’oeuvres with our friends, and were seated at the largest table to share dinner with a group of people who have all been coming back to Guana on an annual basis for some twenty years. Our meal consisted of sweet pea soup, carrot salad (served with fresh fruit and micro greens from the orchard), halibut with fresh vegetables, and finished off with sweet cheese.
Sunday was Castaway Picnic day. We were taken by boat to Bigelow Beach and left for four hours to our own devices with a large picnic hamper and cooler. We set up the picnic under the shade of the sea grapes, and headed into the water for a snorkel. We saw more trumpet fish, bait fish, some beautiful fan-shaped corals, and Aaron spotted the tail of a moray eel. After our swim, we savored cheeses, prosciutto, salami, crusty bread smeared with olive oil, tortilla, fresh fruit, and some sweet white wine. Tres romantic and luxurious!
We were left here on our own for four hours. The suffering.
Back on the main beach, I consumed my daily coconut and a piña colada.
In the afternoon, we decided to hike Long Man’s Trail down to Chicken Rock. The hike promised beautiful views of the island, and it delivered. The terrain was different again from the previous two hikes. Some sections were more open, rockier and dotted with cacti. Other sections were denser and more forest-like. In one section we came across a kaleidoscope of orange and black butterflies fluttering about. They were so full of color, so light, so whimsical, it was quite emotional watching them flit in and out of the trees. A little ways on, we came across yet another kaleidoscope of butterflies, this time yellow and black and with different patterns to the orange butterflies. We spotted lone white moths dancing through the air, and a beautiful iridescent green-grey moth hanging out on a leaf.
In the afternoon, we decided to hike Long Man’s Trail down to Chicken Rock. The hike promised beautiful views of the island, and it delivered. The terrain was different again from the previous two hikes. Some sections were more open, rockier and dotted with cacti. Other sections were denser and more forest-like. In one section we came across a kaleidoscope of orange and black butterflies fluttering about. They were so full of color, so light, so whimsical, it was quite emotional watching them flit in and out of the trees. A little ways on, we came across yet another kaleidoscope of butterflies, this time yellow and black and with different patterns to the orange butterflies. We spotted lone white moths dancing through the air, and a beautiful iridescent green-grey moth hanging out on a leaf.
View from Long Man's Trail
We didn’t make it all the way to Chicken Rock, because we realized the sun was starting to set. We arrived back near the main house to a lovely west-facing garden called the Garden of Eden where we were able to enjoy an incredible view of the sinking sun.
An hour later, we were noshing on hors d’oeuvres with our friends and sitting down to our last dinner on the island. Pumpkin soup, tomato and mozzarella salad (served with strawberries and pine nuts, amazing), dorade with grilled vegetables and duck breast with quinoa, and apple financier for dessert.
Monday morning was heart-breaking. How could we leave our island paradise? How would I cope without my daily coconut infusion? Not to mention that Richmond was -10C…
An hour later, we were noshing on hors d’oeuvres with our friends and sitting down to our last dinner on the island. Pumpkin soup, tomato and mozzarella salad (served with strawberries and pine nuts, amazing), dorade with grilled vegetables and duck breast with quinoa, and apple financier for dessert.
Monday morning was heart-breaking. How could we leave our island paradise? How would I cope without my daily coconut infusion? Not to mention that Richmond was -10C…
One of four resident giant tortoises
We did one last hike, this time down to the beach on the other side of the island. We also visited the island’s resident giant tortoises. We spent our last couple of island hours drinking fresh coconut and piña coladas on the beach, and then it was time to go home.
We boarded the boat, and waved goodbye to Guana Island. We each threw a red hibiscus into the water, hoping the flower would return to shore. If the theory behind the tradition is true, a flower returning the beach means we will also return...
We are incredibly grateful to the Sloan Kettering Dream Team and their amazing generosity for making our dream honeymoon come true. It was a very special way to start 2017.
We boarded the boat, and waved goodbye to Guana Island. We each threw a red hibiscus into the water, hoping the flower would return to shore. If the theory behind the tradition is true, a flower returning the beach means we will also return...
We are incredibly grateful to the Sloan Kettering Dream Team and their amazing generosity for making our dream honeymoon come true. It was a very special way to start 2017.
